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UMBRIA

Pope Leo XIV in France, and Assisi Reads a Pope Who Travels

The Franciscan heartland watches a papal journey that skirted Rome's own backyard

Niccolò Mariani490 wordsEdition №127Saturday, 26 September 2026 — Edition № 127

Pope Leo XIV spent four days in France this week, warning at the Elysee Palace against a "paradise of machines" and urging the country to be a "tireless champion of peace", according to Le Monde and Al Jazeera. The New York Times reported that the trip was designed to appeal both to Roman Catholicism's original European heartlands and to its newer strongholds, following the pope's earlier visit to Africa. Politico Europe noted that at the Elysee he defended freedom of conscience without naming France's populist forces, as Marine Le Pen revived a proposed headscarf ban.

For Assisi, the visit carries a particular resonance. The town that gave the Church Francis is the site of the pope's chosen name, and pilgrimage traffic through Umbria has long tracked the papacy's public profile. Foreign coverage of this trip has focused on the pope's language on artificial intelligence and bioethics rather than on any Italian itinerary: Le Monde reported that he condemned surrogacy, the buying of organs and the concept of "arranging one's own death" in his Paris speech, while Politico Europe noted that Cardinal Michael Czerny, who leads a Vatican commission on AI, admitted he has not yet used the technology himself.

France 24 reported that the Vatican's recent excommunication of followers of the Society of Saint Pius X, an ultra-conservative splinter sect with an extensive network of schools, has revived a longstanding feud within the Church and cast a pall over the visit. That dispute is not an Italian story in its details, but it is a Roman one in its origin, and it lands in a country where the Church's institutional presence is felt far beyond Rome. The wire offers no indication that the schism has produced any local effect in Umbria, and this dispatch makes none.

What the foreign coverage does establish is a papacy in motion. The New York Times framed the France trip as part of a deliberate strategy of reaching both old and new Catholic constituencies; Le Monde described crowds cheering the pope in Paris after his AI warning. Neither outlet reports a stop in Italy, and none of the wire items places the pope in Umbria or Assisi during this journey. What remains, for the inland towns that live partly on pilgrimage, is the question the foreign press has left open: how a pope who travels to secular Europe will be received when the road eventually turns back toward the hills.

The Vatican's positions as reported abroad are firm and specific. Politico Europe recorded the pope's call for "urgent dialogue" in what it described as a warning to populist forces in France, delivered without naming the far right. Le Monde recorded his insistence that "authentic secularity" should not exclude religion. For a region whose identity is bound up with the Franciscan tradition, the notable fact is that the world's press is again writing about a pope in political and ethical terms, and that the writing is happening in Paris rather than in Perugia.

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